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Alcatraz: A Prison in Paradise by Nate Soule
(San Francisco)
In the middle of San Francisco
bay, framed by some of the most beautiful and majestic views in
the country lies Alcatraz Island. A federal penitentiary is not
usually included on the list of one's vacation plans, however
the history and beauty of this island warrant an exception. From
1934 to 1963 a number of the most feared criminals in the
American penal system called "the rock" home. Famous for the
stark contrast between its stunningly serene
surroundings and the harshness of life and character inside its
walls, Alcatraz has found its way into American lore.
Originally named "Isla de los Alcatraces", or "Island
of the Pelicans" it was later changed and shortened to Alcatraz. Today
looking out from the island visitors see a picturesque view from the
Golden Gate Bridge, and downtown San Francisco, to the Bay Bridge, and
Treasure Island. One can for a moment imagine this location as the
setting of a luxurious resort. Turning from the views outside the island
to its interior contents however, quickly brings back the notion that
this island was the scene of a less comfortable history.
Most famous for its role as a prison, Alcatraz was
initially a military base. When gold was discovered in California in
1848 San Francisco's population jumped from 300 to 30,000 in a matter of
years. With this new influx of population and wealth there was a need
for the United States government to protect the area from other nations.
In 1850 when California became a state, a triangle of fortifications was
planned to protect San Francisco Bay. Upon its completion in 1853
Fortress Alcatraz took on the lead role as the most powerful coastal
defense on the western coast. The landscape of the island was
incorporated into the design, and high walls were built on the rocky
isle, leaving the dock as the only access to the fort.
Alcatraz was never called upon to defend the bay,
however a number of small incidents during the Civil War brought the
island into the spot light. As its use as a defensive fortress lessoned,
the island began to take on a new role, that of military prison. Eleven
enlisted men were incarcerated in the guardhouse basement in 1859, and
slowly deserters, thieves, and other military criminals were sent there
from the San Franciscan forts. Finally in 1861 Alcatraz was named the
official prison for the Department of the Pacific. The island served
this role until 1933 when the cost of importing supplies led the Army to
leave, sending prisoners to Kansas and New Jersey.
At this point crime in America had become an
increasing problem, fed largely by the troubles associated with
prohibition. A new prison was sought that could take the worst of the
country's criminals, and seclude them from the public. While land in
Alaska was originally considered, the Army's recent departure from
Alcatraz cemented the island as the choice for America's new
"super-prison". The facility was to take in the most troublesome of
inmates from other prisons around the nation.
In 1934, Al Capone, perhaps the penitentiary's most
infamous prisoner, arrived as one of the first official transfers. His
arrival generated enormous interest, and sparked more headlines than the
opening of the prison itself. Previously while imprisoned in Atlanta,
Capone had been able to achieve a lifestyle within the jail that was
unheard of for other prisoners. A carpeted cell and a radio were among
the niceties he was able to procure through bribes and other methods. He
was even able to continue to manage his organization through relatives
who established themselves in a nearby hotel. For this reason he was put
on a secure prison railroad car without notice, and shipped to Alcatraz
in the hopes that the lack of outside contact would be the government's
answer to the Capone problem. On the rock Capone was never able to
manipulate the warden or guards, and was confined to menial duties along
with the rest of the prison population. Staying only 4 ½ years due to
health complications Capone left for FCI Terminal Island in 1939.
Despite J. Edgar Hoover's displeasure with the idea,
rising costs and a new federal prison in Illinois brought about the
closing of Alcatraz in 1963. Capone, along with other famous inmates
such as George "Machine Gun" Kelly, Alvin Karpis, and Robert Franklin
Stroud (the birdman of Alcatraz), ensured that the prison would live in
American minds for years to come. Today the island is run by the
National Parks Service, which offers daily tours of the former prison.
Visitors can marvel at the wildlife, gardens, and fantastic views from
the high cliffs before entering the cell house where they can be locked
within one of the solitary confinement cells. There in the cold pitch
black room they can experience for just a brief moment what life must
have been like at the prison in paradise.
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